TP-Link’s Tapo P105: A Kasa EP10 clone, or evolutionarily derived?

Two devices. Same manufacturer. Similar cosmetics. (Near-)identical dimensions. Different branding. What about the insides?

After taking a month’s break from the TP-Link smart plug family teardown cadence, I’m back for more. This time, we’ll be looking inside the Tapo P105, one member of a four-pack, to be exact.

Back in early December, I’d noted that it was a “seeming Tapo equivalent to the Kasa EP10”, which I’d subsequently dissected for early March publication, and indeed there are many similarities between them:

The Kasa EP10 has published dimensions of 2.36 x 1.50 x 1.21 in (60 x 38 x 33 mm), while those of the Tapo P105 are near-identical (in imperial units, that is, identical in metric): 2.4 × 1.5 × 1.3 in (60 × 38 × 33 mm)
They both support switching load currents of up to 15 A
And they both support Amazon (Alexa), Google (Assistant and Gemini) and Samsung (SmartThings) smart device protocols, in addition to company-proprietary schemes.

A smart plug by any other name…

The last bit of that last bullet, however, is indicative of a minor-at-least deviation between them. The earlier device was the Kasa EP10; this one’s the Tapo P105. Once again requoting my early December piece, appropriately titled “Tapo or Kasa: Which TP-Link ecosystem best suits ya?”:

“Kasa” was TP-Link’s original smart home device brand, predominantly marketed and sold in North America. The company, for reasons that remain unclear to me and others, subsequently, in parallel, rolled out another product line branded as “Tapo” across the rest of the world. Even today, if you visit the “smart plugs” product page on TP-Link’s website, you’ll see a mix of Kasa- and Tapo-branded products. The same goes for wall switches, light bulbs, cameras, and other TP-Link smart home devices. And historically, you needed to have both mobile apps installed to fully control a mixed-brand setup in your home.

Fortunately, TP-Link has made some notable improvements of late, from which I’m reading between the lines and deducing that a full transition to Tapo is the ultimate intended outcome. As I tested and confirmed for myself just a couple of days ago, it’s now possible to manage both legacy Kasa and newer Tapo devices using the same Tapo app; they also leverage a common TP-Link user account…They all remain visible to Alexa, too, and there’s a separate Tapo skill that can also be set up…along with, as with Kasa, support for other services.

A perusal of the outside cosmetics also reveals some differences. The Kasa EP10’s status LED is integrated within the left-side-located multi-function on/off, pairing and reset switch:

whereas the Tapo P105’s status LED is in the top-left corner of the front panel, with the left-side switch now non-illuminated:

…would switch as sweet?

The illumination locational variance between the two devices presumably results in at least some internal-layout deviance between them, but what about the building-block components themselves? Reiterating what I’ve asked before in similar teardown comparison projects, how different (if at all) are these two product generations from a hardware standpoint, versus TP-Link relying solely on software-only differentiation schemes? Let’s find out.

I’ll start with a conceptual internal view to whet your appetite:

As mentioned previously, today’s patient was sourced from a four-pack that I’d acquired during a 2025 Thanksgiving-week Amazon Warehouse-now-Renewed promotion for $18.06 ($25.80 minus 30%). I’ll start with some outer box shots, as usual accompanied by a 0.75″ (19.1 mm) diameter U.S. penny for size comparison purposes.

The “US/1.26” bit in the upper right corner of the product label in the following photo, based on my past experiences with TP-Link gear, is suggestive of hardware v1.26 inside the box. I’ve mentioned before both the company’s tendency for hardware-iteration profusion and the inter-version compatibility problems that can result from it. That said, the Tapo P105 product page on TP-Link’s website lists only hardware versions v1 and v1.2 (but not v1.26) for both the one- and four-pack bundle variants. Dive into the product support page, on the other hand, and four to-date hardware versions are listed there (none of them v1.2, ironically):

v1
v1.26 (mine)
v1.60, and
v1.80

So…

Onward…

Time to dive inside…

The first things I found were a piece of protective foam, a slip of quick-start literature (PDF), and a small sheet of clear plastic.

What I subsequently realized was that the latter was normally folded in thirds and wrapped around two of the smart plugs. Its sibling was still in place, thereby tipping me off that (at least) one of the two lower devices in the box was removed (and presumably tried out) pre-return by the original purchaser.

Let there (not) be blood

I went with the one in the lower left corner as my dissection victim. Front:

Left side (and upside-down, I subsequently realized):

Back (note the screw head; hold that thought):

Right side (once again upside-down, too):

Top:

And last but not least, the most informative of the lot, the bottom (the penny’s temporarily taped in place from underneath, in case you were wondering):

There’s that US/1.26 notation again, along with the always useful FCC ID (2AXJ4P105):

Remember that screw head I noted earlier? Buh-bye:

I’ve taken apart a few of these devices’ cases by now, so I’ve figured out how to do so without maiming myself like I did the first time (and yes, I realize I’ve just jinxed myself by writing this):

Mission accomplished.

SoC swap motivation: Processing necessity or product availability?

And now for the perspectives you all care about:

The switch, as noted before, is still on the left side:

but whereas with the Kasa EP10, it had been mounted to the same mini-PCB that contained the system SoC:

it’s now standalone, with the mini-PCB lodged in one corner, as already suggested by the earlier-shown conceptual teardown image and presumably to improve wireless connectivity:

The SoC itself is also evolved, from the Realtek RTL87210 to the same dual-core RTL8720 (PDF) found in the Kasa EP25, whose teardown was published in late March.

Note once again the presence of an antenna connector on the module, not used in this particular system implementation.

A relay merry-go-round

Once again on the right side is the blue-colored relay:

this time a Churod A16-V-105DA2F (PDF):

Top and bottom side perspectives follow, for your “edumacation” purposes:

And alas, as with its TP-Link-developed predecessors, I was unable to share with you any perspectives of the PCB backside, although as you might be able to tell from the glimpses in the following shots, there’s not much there to share anyway.

As usual, the FCC certification documentation provides additional visual insights.

And that’s “all” I’ve got for you today! Next up in the TP-Link smart plug dissection series, again as I initially alluded to back in December, I plan to tear down the Tapo P125, which builds on the Tapo P105 foundation with Apple HomeKit (now Apple Home) “smart” support. It’s akin to the earlier Kasa EP10-to-EP25 transition, albeit absent added energy monitoring features this time. Until then, and as always, I welcome your thoughts in the comments!

—Brian Dipert is the associate editor, as well as a contributing editor, at EDN.